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| PRODUCTS - The North Face |
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| NEWS - The North Face |
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| 04/08/11 |
| The Ascent of Mont Blanc |
| In this second trilogy of Exploring The Alps, The North Face® Athletes Hervé Barmasse, Iker and Eneko Pou, successfully opened a new route on the Italian face of the Mont Blanc on the 1st of August 2011. |
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Christening the route “La Classica Moderna”, The North Face® athletes Hervé Barmasse (ITA) and Iker & Eneko Pou (SPA) free-climbed the Freney side of the Mont Blanc south face, Valle d’Aosta, in full autonomy, without bolts. Carrying only essential materials in case of unexpected bivouacs on the ascent, the team used basic traditional protection, such as four pitons. Due to weeks of bad weather, the team approached the Brouillard Pillar in knee-deep snow. Upon the first day of sunny weather, 11 pitches were opened on the rock pillar, up to grade 6c on the Brouillard left pillar.
The climb included one night’s stay at Rifugio Monzino (2590m) and one stop at Bivacco Eccles (3850m). One bivouac was established on the top of Mont Blanc on the Courmayeur side (4765m), where temperatures fell to near -10°C. Accumulating a total vertical gain of 3,300m from the approach to the Creste del Brouillard at the top of Mont Blanc, the team took the descent on the French side of Mont Blanc arriving in Chamonix after a total vertical gain on rock of 380 metres.
In naming the route, Barmasse explained: “The ascent resembled the ethics and philosophy of Walter Bonatti who, in 1959, was the first person to climb on the monoliths of this side of Mont Blanc. I would define the style as modern-classic; a style that mirrors those of the pioneers, who, to get back home, had to reach the top of Mont Blanc. Hence the name La Classica Moderna.”
“The bivouac was fantastic, and the scenery was just stunning. We are very tired, but super happy. It’s a great achievement for all of us,” stated an elated Eneko Pou.
web: www.thenorthfacejournal.com
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| NEWS - The North Face |
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27/03/13
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Tabke And Backstrom Crowned Freeride World Champions At The Swatch Freeride World Tour By The North Face® 2013
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02/10/12
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Climbing Community Celebrates the First Edition of The North Face® Kalymnos Climbing Festival
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18/06/12
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The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival
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22/05/12
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Get Your Fingers Ready For The North Face® Kalymnos Climbing Festival
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17/04/12
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Sun, Rock, Beach & Party at The First Edition of The North Face® Kalymnos Climbing Festival
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28/10/11
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The North Face alpinists Moro, Urubko & Richards announce expedition to attempt first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,125m)
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