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 NEWS - C.A.M.P.
20/09/12
Colonne d'Ercole: amazing new route by Alessandro Baů on the NW face of Civetta
After Chimera verticale (“Vertical Chimera”), completed in 2008 and free climbed in 2009, talented Italian climber and C.A.M.P. testimonial Alessandro Baů established Colonne d'Ercole (“Pillars of Hercules”): his second major new route on the NW face of Civetta. We compliment him on this great success.
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«Colonne d'Ercole is an absolutely unique climb» Baù said. «It's an amazing route that thanks to its beauty (fantastic rock on at least 25 of its 29 pitches), its difficulty (max IX, obligatory VIII+, 16 pitches between grades VII and IX) and the ethics applied during the first ascent (only traditional pitons on the pitches and belays and no aid climbing) can now be placed among other reference routes in the Dolomites».

Baù opened his masterpiece with Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini. The first ascent required several attempts between 2009 and 2012 and on 7-8 September 2012 the trio made the first free ascent of the route. Colonne d'Ercole is an authentic monument, a 1200 meters long climb on the enormous pillar of Punta Tissi. It shares the 150 meters high pedestal with the historical Martini-Leoni-Tranquillini and then continues between this route and Kein Rest von Sehnsucht, passing through the previously unclimbed central slabs of the pillar. At half-height Colonne d'Ercole shares a belay with Kein Rest and then goes on, climbing the large section of untouched rock between Kein Rest and the Philipp-Flamm corner.

Alessandro Baù was awarded the “Pelmo d'Oro” because of his achievements on the NW face of Civetta: on this incredibile wall he made also the second ascent of Viva Mexico cabrones (2005), Nuvole barocche, Eliana and Terapia d'urto al Guanaco (all in 2007), the first solo and then the first winter ascent of Captain Sky-hook (2009 and 2010) and the first winter ascent of Kein Rest von Sehnsucht (2012).

In the picture: Alessandro on Colonne D’Ercole


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