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 NEWS - C.A.M.P.
09/10/12
Martin Riegler: "Kako Peak gave me a fantastic new route"
Precisely, they opened Ramadan (1100 m, 6c+/7a, A2): an amazing new route on the east face of the now named Kako Peak (4900 m).
www.camp.it
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A virgin nameless mountain, a wonderful granite peak: the Italian (South Tyrolean) Martin Riegler, C.A.M.P. athlete, tried it and managed to turn his dream into reality. At the beginning of last August, Martin and his brother Florian completed a very first ascent in the heart of the Karakoram: an adventure characterized by spirit of exploration and technical climbing in the basin of Baltar Glacier. Precisely, they opened Ramadan (1100 m, 6c+/7a, A2): an amazing new route on the east face of the now named Kako Peak (4900 m).

«We hoped to climb Darwo Chhok that we tried in 2008 but conditions on this mountain, compared to four years ago, proved far too dangerous» Martin explains. «So, after climbing about fifteen pitches, we abandoned the attempt and aimed at another virgin peak. In the local language Kako means “big brother” and since “our” mountain is flanked by a smaller one, we decided to name it Kako Peak».

Did Kako Peak come up to your expectations?
«If you love rock climbing, it's really the ideal mountain. Kako Peak gave us a fantastic new route, clearly divided into two different sections: the first is characterized by slabs as the south face of Marmolada and the second, that rises from a large ledge, is very steep and culminating in three summits that look like the famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo. We climbed the upper section in two days, along a series of cracks: the route is very logical, with the most amazing pitches we have ever climbed. We used only cams and nuts, no pitons, therefore the climb was a real pleasure despite the rain at night – we love fast and light style, so we didn't take a tent – and two wet pitches that we aid climbed».

About equipment: how did you feel with CAMP products?
«First, I must say that ultralight Photon quickdraws, with the full-size Photon carabiners that allow easy clipping also wearing gloves, are the best for alpine routes: they really make the difference. Inter alia, for their lightness, I use them also for on sight attempts on sport routes. On Kako Peak we took several Nano 23 carabiners: we used them to individually rack cams and then for rappelling, locking the gate with insulating tape! Pitons (even if we employed them only for belays) and the Stratos harness are exceptional. I wore the Stratos and the ultralight Speed helmet all through the ascent, day and night, even during sleep, and I felt them very comfortable: at the end of the climb they was like a part of me!».

How do you feel after this adventure?
«I'm very pleased. I and my brother like starting an ascent and continuing fast to the summit, one pitch after the other, without fixed ropes. And even though we were in the Karakoram we climbed in this style, as in the Dolomites. The great difference, compared to the Alps, was that in the event of an accident our situation would have become much more complicated! Finally, I can't forget the deep emotion that I felt reaching a virgin summit, a “blank on the map” where no one had ever been».

Do you have future Himalayan projects?
«Yes: despite the complex logistics, long approaches, exhausting waits at base camp and porters strikes, I'd like to go back to those mountains. Also because an Himalayan expedition is not just mountaineering but a wider experience, that allows to know different people and new places, including remote spots requiring some days of walking from the nearest village».

Visit the official website of Martin: www.rieglerbrothers.com


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