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 NEWS - La Sportiva
04/12/12
Adam Ondra special: two different models on two amazing feet.
Adam Ondra, his route Change in Norway and why he used two different climbing shoes.
www.lasportiva.com
La Sportiva

We are delighted to congratulate Adam on recently climbing the incredible Change route in Norway - probably the hardest route in the world. However, while watching his pre-climb video, many of us were left wondering why the Czech climber was wearing two different types of shoes: the Future model on one foot and the Solution model on the other.

While this isn’t common practice for all top level climbers, over the last few years we have noticed that more and more of them are completing their climbs wearing two different climbing shoes. Why? Well, put in simple terms, the more these climbers push themselves to the limit, the more they need to valorise each single foothold in the best possible way. By “valorise”, I don’t just mean putting a few more kilos onto the hold, but being able to take advantage of every single inch of rock surface.
A rigid and precise boot will therefore allow the climber to push more on a well-defined edge, while a softer slipper will help to “hug” the rockface and spread around smoother shapes. Similarly, the heel of the shoe comes into its own when foothooks are all important.

Two different shoes are often used when one works better on hooks and crux holds. There are numerous decisions influencing the choice of shoe, not least psychological. Sometimes a certain shoe just makes us feel more positive, even if we don’t really know why. Sometimes it is the unexplainable that holds the truth.
Anyway, going back to our Adam and his Change: the young climber explained that he chose to wear the Solution on his right foot because this provided a better push on well-defined, smooth holds and overhangs. On his left foot, he simply preferred to use the Future model. Whatever he was wearing, we take our hats off to him for all the magic and excitement he constantly pours into the world of climbing!

Pietro Dal Pra and the Laspo team



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